Before you buy any
house, take the time to thoroughly inspect the structure
and mechanical systems.
Costly repairs can
often be avoided or at least anticipated by a
preliminary inspection before a purchase offer is
signed. If the house is inspected before a purchase
offer is made, you will know in advance if heating
equipment, rewiring, or any other costly repairs or
replacements will be needed. If defects are found, you
do not necessarily have to reject the house. A purchase
offer can include a contingency clause that
identifies what needs to be corrected before the sale is
finalized. Another option is to offer a lower purchase
price based on the cost of correcting the problems.
After an offer
to purchase contract is signed (but before a loan is
applied for or a title inspection ordered), a thorough
inspection should be done. Some lenders require a
mechanical and structural inspection by a qualified
house inspector. Even if a lending institution does not
require such an inspection, you may want one. Reserve
the right to cancel or renegotiate a purchase agreement
if a professional inspection reveals significant
defects.
If you decide to
hire a professional inspector, be there when the
inspection is done. Follow him or her around. Ask
questions. It is important to know what is being
checked, why, and the condition of each area.
TOOLS
-
Pencil
and paper to record information on the house.
-
Measuring tape (25 or 50 feet) to measure the
dimensions of the house and individual rooms. (The
measurements will show whether pieces of furniture
will fit into specific rooms).
-
Stepladder, if needed, for access to an attic.
-
Flashlight with a strong beam for inspecting the
attic, basement, and storage areas with poor
lighting.
-
Coveralls to protect your clothing when inspecting
the attic or crawl space.
-
Ice pick
or pocket knife to test the condition of wood
structure.
-
Hand
level to check drainage of sidewalks, porches, and
basement floor and to see if the floors are level.
-
Screwdriver to remove electrical faceplates to look
for evidence of insulation and the condition of the
wiring. (Turn off electrical power at fuse or
circuit breaker box first!)
-
Three-prong electrical circuit tester to test
receptacles.
-
Binoculars for inspecting roof shingles and flashing
from the ground.
-
Plumb
line and T-square.
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
Walk around the
outside of the house at least twice. As you walk, note
specific areas that you need to inspect more carefully
when inside the house. Look first at the foundation,
drainage, and siding; the second time check windows,
gutters, and the roof.
Once the outside
inspection is finished, move inside the house. Start in
the crawl space or basement and work up through the
house to the attic. Take plenty of time to look behind
boxes, in dark areas, under cabinets, etc.
The items listed
below will help you do a thorough inspection. Use this
list as a guide when inspecting any house. The items do
not include such personal preferences as interior
decoration (color, carpet, window treatment, etc.) or
the presence of optional equipment (air conditioning,
security system, etc.) NOTE: The items are not listed in
the exact order which you might follow when inspecting a
house.
Answer YES or NO to
as many of the questions as apply to the house you are
inspecting.
LOT
Does the slope of
the lot prevent water from standing next to the house?
Water-saturated soil could indicate the lack of drain
tile.
Is there easy and
safe access to the lot?
Is the lot safe and
convenient?
Are there signs of
septic field drainage problems? These may include odor
of raw sewage, extremely soggy soil over the drainfield,
sewage discharged over the ground or in nearby ditches,
broken or cracked white pipes that stick out of the
ground, or an alarm flashing or beeping in the house.
SOUNDNESS OF
CONSTRUCTION
Are the foundation
walls, interior walls, and ceilings free of cracks,
especially horizontal ones? Check for door frames that
seem to lean in one direction. These conditions might
indicate excessive settling.
Does the structure
sag? Are exterior walls plumb and square? Do floor or
ceiling joists sag?
Are the floor and
ceiling joists in good condition? Check the size and
condition of the main beams, support posts, and rafters.
WINDOWS
Do all windows open
easily and close tightly?
Is the woodwork
surrounding all windows a good fit and in good
condition?
Are the
weatherstripping, caulking, and window pane glazing in
good condition?
Are there storm
windows and screens? Do they fit properly? Are any
missing or broken? Check windows from both the inside
and outside.
DOORS
Do all exterior
doors fit tightly and operate easily? Check by opening
and closing each door. If one tends to stick, check the
fit. It could be swollen from too much moisture.
Carefully check the weather-stripping to see if it is in
good condition. Check the operation and security of
locks and hinges.
Are the interior
doors in good condition or are they warped? They should
close and latch properly and easily. Check the door trim
for good fit. Knobs, locks, and hinges should operate
easily and be in good condition.
PAINT
Are the painted
surfaces of the house in good condition? Check for
peeling, blistering, and chipping both inside and
outside the house. If any of these conditions are
present, a paint job may be your first "project."
Keep in mind that
paints with significant amounts of lead are common on
interior walls painted before 1972 and exteriors painted
before 1978. Paints with lead may present a health
hazard to young children who might eat chips from the
paint, as well as to other household members.
SIDING
Are the siding
materials and the paint or stain in good condition?
Peeling paint or white spots on stain could indicate
moisture problems. Look for decay, split siding, or
excessive rusting of nailheads.
Is there caulking
around doors and windows, at corners, and wherever
different building materials meet? Is in good condition?
ROOFING
Is the roof in good
condition? Note the type of roofing material used. Try
to determine its age from the previous owner. Are there
broken or missing shingles, or some with curling edges?
Is the ridge beam
of the roof straight, or does the roof sag?
Is there evidence
of water leakage inside the house? Inspect rafters and
insulation in the attic as well as ceilings and interior
walls for water stains and discoloration.
Is the flashing in
good condition and properly placed to prevent water from
entering the attic? Make sure there is flashing around
the chimney.
Are the gutters and
downspouts in good condition? Are there any signs of
leakage? Do downspouts empty away from the foundation?
BASEMENT OR CRAWL
SPACE
Is there easy,
clear access to the basement or crawl space? If heating
equipment or water heater is located there, can it be
reached easily for servicing?
Is the basement or
crawl space dry and resistant to water penetration?
Check for water stains on concrete floors and foundation
walls. Damp spots on walls are not necessarily a sign of
leakage; they can result from condensation. Even if
floors and walls are dry, a damp or musty smell may
indicate seasonal wetness.
Are there
foundation vent openings in the crawl space? These
openings are especially important if the ground has not
been covered by a moisture barrier or if there is a
radon problem.
FLOORS
Are the floors
level and in good shape?
Does the floor
squeak or "give" when you walk over it? A wood floor
should be smooth, tight, and free from squeaks. Check
the condition of its finish.
ATTIC
Can you get to the
attic easily? In some homes, a permanent or fold-down
stair provides easy access to the attic, but in other
homes access to the attic is through a panel in a closet
or hall. In the latter case, a stepladder must be used.
Do you see evidence
of moisture, such as discoloration of the rafters;
stains on the attic floor, masonry, and pipes; or damp
insulation?
Is there adequate
ventilation in the attic? Do all plumbing, heating, and
exhaust fan vents extend to the outside?
Do you see streaks
of light around vents, chimneys or roof seams? These are
potential leaks.
INSULATION
Is the house
insulated? There should be adequate insulation in the
walls floor, ceiling, and attic. Check the thickness and
general condition. The local utility company can provide
recommended R-values.
HEATING SYSTEM
Is the heating
system in safe and workable condition? Check for a
sticker on the furnace or boiler that shows the last
time a combustion efficiency test was performed. At what
level of efficiency does the burner operate? Turn the
system on and note its performance. Check for adequate
air movement in each room if the system is forced air.
Check for leaks from a hot water system. If the system
is electrical, check the baseboard units to determine
whether they are securely attached.
Is the thermostat
located in a central location and away from doors or
windows?
Replacing a heating
system is a major expense, so it may be wise to have the
system inspected by an expert. Ask the seller if an
utility energy audit has been conducted. Ask for a copy
of the report.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Does the service
box have at least 100 amperes? Check the quantity and
types of circuits for appliances and other electrical
equipment to be used. Check to see whether kitchen and
laundry circuits are adequate.
Are there enough
electrical receptacles to meet your needs? Grounded
receptacles have a third, round hole. Use a circuit
tester to see if receptacles are wired correctly and are
grounded.
Does the house have
ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection in
the kitchen, bathroom, garage, and outdoor circuits?
Special GFCI receptacles can be identified by the "test"
and "reset" buttons on the face of each outlet; GFCI
breakers are labeled in the service box. If this
protection is found in an older home, it indicates that
the electrical system has been upgraded.
Is there visible
electrical wiring in the attic, basement, or garage?
Note the type of wire used and its condition.
As with the heating
system, you may wish to have a professional check the
electrical system.
WATER SYSTEM AND
QUALITY OF WATER
Are the plumbing
fixtures, especially in the bathroom and kitchen, in
good condition? Look for water damage on the bottom of
sink cabinets, around the bases of toilets, and on
ceilings (below upstairs plumbing fixtures).
Check the water
pressure at the faucets. Turn on all faucets and flush
all toilets at the same time. How long it takes the
tanks to refill under these conditions is a good
indication of the water pressure.
Are there a
shut-off valves on both hot and cold water supply lines
to all sinks?
Look for signs of
rust and leaks in the water heater. Is there a pressure
relief valve?
Is there a private
well? Has the water been tested? Acceptable water
quality can be a contingency in your purchase offer.
You can get
information on water testing from your county
cooperative extension center.
SEWAGE DISPOSAL
If there is a
septic tank, is it in good condition? What is its age?
Has it been pumped regularly at 3- to 5-year intervals?
Are there any signs indicating faulty or inadequate
capacity of drain lines, such as a slowly draining sink,
or a toilet that backs up?
APPLIANCES
Do some appliances
remain with the house? These may include a built-in
oven, dishwasher, garbage disposal, free-standing range,
refrigerator, washer, dryer, and window air conditioning
unit. All should be tested for efficient and safe
operation. Ask the owner for any records of service and
repair.
INSECT DAMAGE
Are there signs of
wood damage from insects? The most destructive insect is
the termite, which eats the interior of studs and
joists. Termites may cause much damage before they are
detected. Termite inspection is required by most
lenders. Has the house been periodically inspected and
treated for termites?
Are there piles of
coarse sawdust beneath the timbers? This may indicate
the presence of carpenter ants. Unlike termites,
carpenter ants do not eat wood, but they do nest in it.
They are most likely to attack wood that has already
begun to rot. These ants may also be heard within walls
and may even be spotted inside the house in the winter.
They are black and about 1/2-inch long.
Do you see deposits
of sawdust on the floor and small pencil-lead size holes
in wood beams and floor joists? This may indicate the
presence of the powder-post beetle. To verify, check to
see if the wood crumbles when an ice pick or pocketknife
is pressed into the beams, floor joists, support posts,
and sill plates.
If there is some
indication of the presence of termites, carpenter ants,
or powder-post beetles, your purchase offer can be
contingent on the house being free from infestation by
these or other insects. You can ask the seller to pay
the cost of a professional insect inspection and
treatment; however, inspection is usually paid by the
buyer.
THE INDOOR
ENVIRONMENT
Certain products or
pollutants in the indoor environment can cause health
problems. Asbestos, carbon monoxide, and radon are
hazards that may be present. Lead, which can be present
in water or paint, can cause health problems in children
and during pregnancy. And some people are sensitive to
certain products or pollutants like formaldehyde and
volatile organic compounds. You may want to test for
some or all of the following contaminants. Contact your
local health department or county cooperative extension
center for guidance on testing.
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Formaldehyde is often found in particle and other
composition board, plywood, paneling, wallpaper, and
permanent-pressed fabrics.
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Asbestos
fibers may be found in thermal insulation, pipe and
duct insulation, vinyl flooring, textured paint,
exterior siding, and appliances, stoves, and
furnaces. Removal of asbestos can be expensive and
should be left to a professional.
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Carbon
monoxide may be leaking from defective or improperly
vented combustion appliances, such as furnaces, gas
dryers, and gas heaters. These should be checked by
a qualified heating system technician. Try to avoid
the use of wood stoves or kerosene heaters.
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Radon, a
colorless and odorless soil gas, can travel from the
soil to the foundation and then to the inside of a
house. It can have long-term health effects. If the
house hasn't been tested for radon, you may want to
ask the seller to establish an escrow account to
cover costs of remediation, if necessary.
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Volatile
Organic Compounds are found in flammable and other
household cleaning and maintenance products. You may
want these products removed before you take
possession of the house.
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Lead may
be present in house paints used before 1977 and in
the piping system at soldered joints. If you have
small children and suspect the presence of lead, you
may want to have the house checked. Removal of
lead-based paint can be costly.
Adapted from the following publications:
John Merrill. 1990. Buying a
Home: The First Time Around. University of
Wisconsin-Extension, Madison, WI.
James A. McCarty and Joseph
Laquatra. 1991. Basic House Inspection. Cornell
University Cooperative Extension Service, Ithaca, NY.
Joseph Laquatra. 1991.
Inspecting a Home. Home Buyer's Guide: Financing and
Evaluating Prospective Homes. Northeast Regional
Agricultural Engineering Service, Cornell University,
Ithaca, NY.
